The Gastronomic Meal of the French
Performance
« La salle à manger est un théâtre dont la cuisine est la coulisse et la table la scène. »
​
(The dining room is a theater in which the kitchen is the backstage and the table is the stage.)
- Chatillon-Plessis, author (in La vie à table à la fin du XIXe siècle, 1894)
According to Sims and Stephens (2011, 131), "performance is an expressive activity that requires participation, heightens our enjoyment of an experience, and invites response." Also, the emergent nature of performance means that no two performances are the same (Sims and Stephens 2011, 148).
While they may not be easy to spot, the gastronomic meal of the French has several performance elements.
Physical and Social Context
Rituals often have a "predetermined time and place" (Sims and Stephens 2011,131). The gastronomic meal typically takes place in a home that has the capacity to host multiple guests. The time and place for the meal are set in advance and known to the participants. The social and psychological context is also important, as this is a moment of conviviality between family and friends. Just as important as the meal itself is the conversation around the table and the preparation of the meal together (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 1:03, 4:05). This allows for the expression of French values such as social and familial relationships. Another element of the social context is that regional variations, culture and sometimes membership in other folk groups will determine exactly what drinks will start and end the meal. For example, a Muslim family might choose non-alcoholic beverages and dishes may be halal.
In addition, we can take note of the meal's various "scenes": at the dining room table, in the kitchen, and at the market.
​
Physical context: scenes in relation to the gastronomic meal
At the dining room table (eating the meal)
In the kitchen (preparing the food together)
At the market (planning the meal)
Framing
As noted in our aesthetic components research, the eating portion of the gastronomic meal starts with an apéritif (pre-dinner drink) and ends with a digestif (after-dinner liqueur) (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 5:46). These can be seen as markers which begin and end this performance. A verbal introduction to the performance may include a phrase like Bonne dégustation ! or Bon appétit ! (Enjoy your meal!). This signals that it is time to eat. A verbal closing phrase might include thanking the host (Merci !) or acknowledging how good the meal was (C'était trop bon !). This is an elicited response that adds to the joy of being together and sharing good food. Also, the bringing in of each new course and the clearing of the previous course help us see each course as a distinct part, or scene, of the performance.
Emergence
According to Bauman (1984 [about Georges 1969]), "every performance differs from every other, depending on the context and the group in which the performance occurs" (as cited by Sims and Stephens 2011, 152). For example, immigration has diversified French cuisine, and the inclusive values of the French ensure emergence by incorporating dishes from other cultures. This cultural context has an impact on the performance and allows the tradition of the gastronomic meal to evolve (through dynamic elements) with the values of French society. More conservative elements will not be changed (Toelken 1996, 35). For instance, a Moroccan chicken tajine or a Vietnamese-style amuse-bouche (appetizer) can be served, but you will not find them outside their designated courses. This is because the French structure of multi-course meals (service à la française) is fixed (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 7:37). This ensures that the tradition is recognizable, but also that there is space for it to evolve.
From L to R: verbal marker (Bon appétit !), non-verbal marker (apératif), emergence (Tajine, du Maghreb), and non-verbal marker (digestif).