Research

L’essentiel : Who, What, Where, When and Why…

The gastronomic meal of the French describes a folk tradition of French people. Designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) by UNESCO, the meal is a social event that is prepared by French people with and for family and/or friends. It is specifically reserved for festive gatherings (such as holiday meals) and celebratory events (i.e. important life moments like birthdays and weddings). It is typically hosted at a family home with the capacity to host multiple people. For French people participating in the tradition, it allows for the formation and expression of French values such as honoring social relationships, inclusivity, the importance of preparing and enjoying good food, honoring seasonality and territory in food consumption and preparation, and preserving French culture (Shields-Argelès 2010, 1, 60-1; Tornatore 2013, 363; UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 8:36). Going beyond the service and consumption of the meal, time and careful consideration go into the selection of recipes, and the purchasing of seasonal and local products. Food preparation is done together and conversation and enjoyment of the meal as a group are key components (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 1:03, 4:05).

Genre: Customary Folklore

Although the gastronomic meal involves material folklore (table decor) and verbal folklore (through conversation) to certain degrees, the primary genre is customary folklore as it centers around French cuisine. Prepared as a multi-course meal, the gastronomic meal includes at least four courses (UNESCO n.d.a).

Additionally, the gastronomic meal involves French food rituals and social behaviors as it pertains to recipe selection, local shopping, food preparation, food and wine pairing, serving order, spending time with friends and family, celebrating important life moments and etiquette.

All elements of the gastronomic meal require a certain savoir-faire (body of knowledge) and savoir-vivre (knowing how to live well), concepts specific to and valued in French culture. Knowledge is transmitted through word of mouth (at the market for example), in the sharing of recipes, and the with the participation of family (including children) and friends.

Context: Why Food is so Important in French Culture

Historical and Cultural Context

French cuisine has a rich history, so much so that it has become “a national symbol of prestige” (Clark 1975, 33). In the 17th century, medieval French cuisine underwent a transformation that resulted in the use of less spices and eventually became more focused on sauces and simple ingredients (Watts 2010, 596). This style is what we see today in French modern cuisine and the expansion of French cuisine coincides with the French Revolution, which essentially put cuisine in the hands of the people rather than nobles (New World Encyclopedia n.d.). Furthering the importance of everyday French cooking, chefs like Antonin Carême and Jules Gouffé began to dedicate works to cooking in French homes in the early 19th century (Rambourg 2010, 224). The late 19th century and early 20th century brought Auguste Escoffier, a French chef who further defined French national cuisine via cookbooks, French haute cuisine via the luxury hotel and restaurant industries, and contributed to the modernization of the restaurant industry as a whole, which streamlined the cooking process and informed how course dishes are served (Myhrvold 2011, 15). French cuisine is internationally renowned and respected today, contributing to a sense of “gastronationalism,” a phenomenon in which cuisine is strongly associated with national identity (DeSoucey 2010, 434). In this case, food prepared and served at a gastronomic meal has helped shape cultural identity and is also a reflection of one’s “Frenchness.”

Physical Context:

While the gastronomic meal follows precise rules (like the number and order of courses), physical context informs what winds up on people’s plates. Regional cookbooks began to appear in France in the 19th century (Flandrin and Hyman 2010, 221). Different regions in France are known for different products (from cheeses to wines), and have their own specialties and methods of cooking (Steele 2004, 122). This is largely due to intersecting factors like geography, climate, and local culture. Today, the connection between place, people and food is known as “terroir.” This is a French concept that shows the value placed on fresh and local products that are expertly cultivated or raised (savoir-faire) (Gérard 2022, 139-40). The use of products du terroir is a key element of French cooking, and an emblematic component of the gastronomic meal. The attention to detail in the gastronomic meal when it comes to selecting dishes, buying ingredients, and preparing and serving the food also shows the value that French people place on enjoying “good food” in the company of “good people,” i.e. friends and family.

Political Context:

Food also enters into politics as French cuisine and food products are an undeniable part of the country's soft power. In fact, Charles de Gaulle is famously quoted as having said, « Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a trois cents sortes de fromages ? » (How can you govern a country that has 300 types of cheese?) (Steele 2004,122). Politics plays a role in the perpetuation of the tradition as the submission process to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity starts with government involvement and support (Tornatore 2013, 354-58; Demgenski 2020, 117-9). However, it is ultimately ordinary French people who perform the tradition (Tornatore 2013, 354-8). This ensures the dynamic nature of the tradition.

The Gastronomic Meal as a Tradition

According to Sims and Stephens, tradition “is both lore and process, helps to create and confirm a sense of identity, and is identified as a tradition by the community” (Sims and Stephens 2011, 70).

95% of French people believe that the gastronomic meal is a vital element of their "heritage and cultural identity," and 99% of French people wish to preserve the gastronomic meal and believe that passing it on to future generations is important (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 0:33, 8:36). So we can see how the gastronomic meal creates and confirms a sense of identity and that it is recognized by French people as a tradition. “Lore refers to a body of knowledge held by a particular group and passed by word of mouth,” but does not describe all folklore (Nichol 2019, 2:45). While word of mouth is part of the transmission of knowledge (getting guidance from local vendors for the meal for example), the gastronomic meal is also passed down by process, such as teaching one’s children to cook, to set the table in a specific way and how to pair certain foods with different wines. The body of knowledge is also specific to the folk group concerned (the French) as the specific order of French meal courses is applied: apéritif, starter, fish, meat dish, cheese, dessert, digestif (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 5:46). Because the French prefer seasonal ingredients and produits du terroir (local products), this is a living knowledge that can evolve and change based on regional variations and cultural influences.

The Gastronomic Meal as a Ritual

According to Sims and Stephens, “rituals are outward expressions or enactments of inwardly experienced values, beliefs, and attitudes” (Sims and Stephens 2011,100).

For the French, the gastronomic meal is typically a secular, invented ritual, although certain festive meals may have spiritual elements. For example, about 23% of France's population identifies as Catholic (Drouhot, Simon, and Tiberj 2023, 39). Therefore, certain meals, like those prepared for Easter and Christmas, may have spiritual elements for some Catholics. The meal marks a change in state, signifying that the moment shared is a special occasion (a holiday or celebration of a life event) and is different from other meals and gatherings between friends and family. The act of preparing and sharing the meal together also reveals the French values of social connection and community. The structure of the meal itself is highly organized, following the French order of courses (apéritif, starter, fish, meat dish, cheese, dessert, digestif) (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 5:46). Having a different wine for every course also provides structure, as well as a ritualized process and order for cutting and tasting cheeses, from the mildest to the strongest in flavor (UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 7:37). The enjoyment of the meal and its preparation reveals the French value of deriving pleasure from food, which is also associated with French identity (Gomez and Torelli 2015, 404-6; UNESCO and MFPCA 2010, 0:33). Like the ritual of mumming, the gastronomic meal combines the importance of social bonds and hospitality with celebrating around food (Handelman 1984, 250-3). Inviting someone to share the meal is a sign of trust and a way to both reinforce and value social relationships and community.

Different Aspects of the Gastronomic Meal

Social Aspect

The gastronomic meal brings together French families and friends for a festive/celebratory meal. Typically prepared together, the meal follows social customs and practices, and reinforces social relationships through time spent together and through conversation.

Culinary Aspect

The gastronomic meal of the French is a multi-course meal prepared à la française (the French way). Products and dishes are selected according to seasonality and where one lives in France. Each course is paired with a different wine and the meal has several aesthetic components.

Cultural Aspect

Food and social gatherings are integral to French culture. The concept of gastronationalism explains how French cuisine and national identity are linked. The diversity of France is reflected in the gastronomic meal through regional variations and the inclusion of dishes from other cultures.